Choosing Equipment
There is no one size fits all option for leashing your dog. We will give you some guidelines, but no matter what you choose, you should make sure you introduce any equipment in a way that will help your puppy feel comfortable when wearing it. Also consider that most equipment should be removed when your dog does not actively need it/is not directly supervised. We often take for granted that collars are a strangulation hazard. Please see The Naked Dog Project for more information on collar safety.
STOP!
Collars, head collars or harnesses that cause a dog pain or discomfort should be avoided. These include harnesses that close down on the dog when they pull, collars that shock, spray, choke, or pinch/prong the dog. There are many euphemisms for these pieces of equipment: training collars, e-collars. These may reduce pulling or other unwanted behavior for some dogs. They increase the risk for injury in all dogs: burns, collapsed trachea, neck injuries as a result of use. When used ‘correctly’ they use pain and discomfort to communicate. Dogs may develop fearful or aggressive behaviors as a result of using this type of equipment.
CAUTION
Equipment worn on the neck puts a dog at risk for neck and spine injuries when they pull. Flat collars and martingale (limited choke) can be used safely when dogs do not pull. Flat collars can be used to carry ID tags. They should be removed when unsupervised – both martingale and flat collars pose strangulation risk when left on unsupervised and during play.
Harnesses with a front clip can be useful in handling a dog that pulls, but training to teach the dog not to pull should be used to prevent shoulder and back injury from being pulled to the side. Dogs lunging into a front clip harness may also be flipped off their feet. They often change the ability of the dog to move their legs forward normally – avoid using a harness that you must attach to a front clip when a dog is going to be moving faster than a walk.
Retractable leashes can be dangerous to the dog, handler and other people (burns, cuts when tangled or grabbed). They can break unexpectedly. These leashes also will chase the dog if accidentally dropped, causing most dogs to run away. They do not allow you to easily control your dog to keep them out of danger. They force your dog to pull to gain freedom, teaching your dog to apply pressure to the leash to move forward (no wonder they think they should pull on leash).
Head collars can be helpful for handling larger dogs, and dogs that pull. Most dogs will not enjoy wearing this piece of equipment without training, but if you prefer to use this type of equipment take the time to condition them to be comfortable. Dogs that pull into a head collar all of the time, or lunge while wearing it can still cause injury to their neck. Some dogs will rub their noses raw or develop skin irritations from the band.
BEST CHOICES
Fixed length leashes made of material that is comfortable for the handler and allows the dog to walk on loose leash are the best choice. Most dogs will be easiest to handle on a 6 to 8 foot leash. A longer leash can be held shorter when needed, and when walking will reduce pulling by allowing your dog just a little more space. Handlers can learn to safely manage longer leashes (15 to 30ft) to allow more freedom – giving you the benefits of a retractable without the dangers.
Body harnesses with a back attachment are the best choice for most dogs and handlers. Dogs that pull can be handled more easily while working on loose leash training with two points of contact (front clip to steer when needed and back clip for brakes). The best choices will be easy to put on, where the dog can learn get dressed or stand calmly. There are harnesses that do not require lifting the feet or putting the harness over the head. The best choices will allow the dog to walk or run normally, and feel comfortable.